Montalcino is a very large township indeed, and accordingly it is no surprise that the vineyards – which now extend from its very northern to its very southern borders – incorporate a very wide variety of different soils, exposures, micro-climates, and altitudes. Which, quite obviously give rise to a very wide variety as well of different wines: all with the common matrix provided by the Sangiovese grape, a variety planted all over central Italy but which here gives nonpareil results.

Andrea Cortonesi’s Uccelliera estate – a mere fifteen acres of vineyards but all in choice position within the township confines – have regularly and with an impeccable continuity given wines, in particular a Brunello di Montalcino, of distinctive and high level character and personality. The property was purchased in 1986, the vineyards planted immediately, and the first wines issued in 1993; the powerful style of this Brunello requires a lengthy aging period before the wine can be marketed, and Cortonesi’s version of Brunello has always been full-throttle, richly alcoholic and warm, spicy and intense in his interpretation of Sangiovese. The style is a personal one and mirrors his work in the vineyard and cellar, but much is also due to the position of his vineyard plots.

The house is located in the warm and sunny southern part of Montalcino at relatively low altitudes, at least compared to the over 1500 feet above sea level of various other producers, and the careful control of the yields have made these wines exemplary in their expression of Castelnuovo dell’Abate, the sub-zone of operations. The skilled use of the oak in the aging, which employs both small oak barrels and larger oak casks, has given the wines their distinctive spiciness, well controlled and never unbalanced, the aromas and flavors of Sangiovese are never masked or compromised. And this reflects Cortonesi’s initial professional work as well, as cellar master at a well known neighboring estate. Cortonesi’ mastery of Sangiovese, however, is anything but a limit, as demonstrated by his Rapace, an excellent blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon, one of the few convincing examples in the entire zone.

Brunello di Montalcino